In the weaving-rich tradition of Islampur in Swat Valley, locally swati shawl grades using numbers—72, 64, 52, and 48—which indicate their relative fineness, weight, and softness. This traditional system reflects craft ingenuity rather than international industry standards. Facebook
The Four Recognized swati shawl grades
Grade 72
- Renowned for being the softest, finest, and lightest, Grade 72 shawls are often considered the pinnacle of Swati shawl craftsmanship.
- These shawls are typically hand-woven on traditional khaddi looms, showcasing expert artisanal skill. Etsyclassics
Grade 64
- While less common in descriptions than Grade 72, Grade 64 represents an intermediate level—still tender and refined, yet slightly more substantial than 72.
- It serves as a balanced option between luxury and practical warmth.
Grade 52
- A well-known grade offering a middle-ground texture: softer than 48, yet more durable and warmer than 64 or 72.
- Often selected for everyday use, Grade 52 shawls are valued for their practicality.
Grade 48
- The coarsest and heaviest in the traditional grading scale, Grade 48 provides maximum durability and warmth—a reliable choice for colder climates.
Traditional, Not Technical
These grades are local classifications used by artisans and buyers in the region. They denote tactile and visual qualities such as softness, weight, and weave finesse—not technical measures like micron diameter or thread count.
This system stands apart from agencies like the USDA that grade wool numerically by micron ranges—e.g., Grade 64’s meaning literally refers to 20.60–22.04 microns—yet such standards are unrelated to Swati shawl tradition.
Comparison Table
GradeDescription72Ultra-fine, lightweight, luxurious—artisan-crafted premium shawls64Soft and refined, slightly heavier—balanced luxury52Moderate fineness—durable, practical, everyday wear48Coarsest and heaviest—maximum warmth and resilience
Crafting Stories & Context
- Grade 72 shawls can weigh up to around 450g—that's remarkably light given their size and warmth.
- They're deeply rooted in Khadi weaving traditions on the looms of Islampur, preserving centuries of textile heritage.
- Grade 48 shawls often emphasize comfort and weight, appealing to those needing warmth and durability above delicate luxury.
In Summary
- Only four grades—72, 64, 52, and 48—are recognized in the traditional Swati shawl classification.
- No additional grades beyond these are documented or in regular use.
- The system is qualitative and craft-focused, not based on technical fiber measurement.
- Understanding these grades empowers buyers to select based on intended use—luxury, balance, warmth, or everyday endurance.
